Valuations

Neither the company Spode, nor the Museum, The Spode Museum Trust, is able to give valuations. This is because neither buy nor sell old or antique pieces of pottery and therefore do not have current information on market values. 

Those wishing to obtain valuations for their Spode and Copeland wares should consider contacting a reputable professional auctioneer and/or valuer for advice. Some valuers in the UK have valuation days and some also specialise in ceramics. Some will give free verbal valuations if you take the item in to them. It is always advisable to phone first and written quotations for insurance purposes may incur a fee.

 Other organisations and events sometimes offer valuations, such as Antique Fairs - look in magazines and local press for details. Magazines specialising in antiques often have price guides and you can consult books specialising in prices which are published annually.

Why not try: http://www.setyourtable.com/atticstuff.html

This is a US based website which assists with Pottery Matchings and you will find a feature about valuations called:  

Attic Treasures and Family Heirlooms
What are they worth?

Experts provide tips for identifying, valuating china, crystal, Sterling

by Kathryn Wiese
Retrospective Modern Design
Mid-Century Dinnerware

Also on the Internet there are many on-line auctions, for example www.ebay.com, where ideas of value can be gained from searching for similar items. Accessing sites like this may also give you an idea of availability as well as value.  

Other addresses which may be of help are:

Auction Houses with their own websites

Trace Magazine Issue 171 May 2003 (www.trace.co.uk) contains an article about valuations.

For replacement prices for patterns still in production, or similar patterns which may complement your wares, current prices from Spode may help you. The Spode website is: www.spode.co.uk

Some Advice on the Care of Antique Ceramics

Handling

The greatest threat to ceramic objects is handling; the less frequently a piece is moved the longer it will last.

• Before lifting a piece, always check for damage. Hairline cracks or 'fire cracks' (cracks caused by distortion in the kiln) will turn into breaks if the piece is knocked.
• Never hold an object by the knob or the handle, it may have been repaired.
• Never pick up a bowl or plate by the rim, particularly a large heavy item; you may be left holding only a piece of the rim!
• Take care when handling a piece with a lid, it is safer to remove the cover before turning a piece over to see any marks on the base.
• Take care when handling figures. Hands, flowers and leaves are often vulnerable to breaking off.
• Never carry more than one pot at a time unless wrapped and boxed.

Accidents

• If the piece is of any value do not attempt to stick it together yourself but consult a professional conservator.
• Do not try to piece it back together, you will only damage the raw edges making repair more difficult. Your insurance may cover the cost of repair
• Old repairs can sometimes cause further damage; rivets can rust and stain the ceramic body, adhesives can dissolve in water and are more susceptible to changes in temperature and humidity and can fail when least expected.

Cleaning

Dust will not damage pots but hasty dusting will!

• Dust ceramics only when necessary using a soft duster; and a brush for any awkward corners.
• Antique ceramics should be washed as infrequently as possible. Do not immerse in water; it is better to wash the piece on a stable surface covered with a cloth. Keeping one hand on the object wash it with a soft cloth or sponge and clean warm water trying not to soak the whole item.
• Beware of using any abrasive cleaner or strong detergents or cleaners.
• Never use bleach which can cause yellowing and permanent damage.
• If the piece is particularly dirty, use soap flakes which are less damaging than normal detergents.
• Cotton buds or brushes are useful for crevices.

The following types of ware require special attention and should not be washed or immersed in water:

• Pieces with crazed or chipped glazing : water will get underneath causing staining and lifting of the glaze.
• Low-fired porous ceramics such as tin-glazed earthenwares which will take many hours to dry out and can be stained with dirty water.
• Unglazed ceramics such as terracotta, jasper and basalt wares, Parian and biscuitware are difficult to clean, dirt can be ingrained into the surface. The cleaning of these wares is better left to conservators. Do not wipe these wares with a damp cloth as this can push the dirt into the body and cause streaking.
• Objects with gold decoration or metal or ormolu mounts . Gold decoration has been produced in a variety of ways in the past, some of which are unstable. Always treat gilded areas with care, even when dusting. Metal mounts will rust if left wet ensure any metal areas are dried properly if washing is essential.

Display

• The bases, particularly of stonewares and coarser bodies may need covering to protect furniture. Felt or chamois are the best fabrics for this purpose. If it is necessary to stick the pad to the pot, use a water-based glue and stick only to the footrim. Flower vases should stand on glass mats.
• Plate stands should properly accommodate the size of the plate: the back support should ideally be three quarters the height of the plate which should rest at an angle of 20º. Perspex stands are recommended, as they are less visible and will not scratch the glaze.
• Plate hangers should be sprung and of plastic coated wire. If you have a piece with the old type of uncoated wire hanger, it is advisable to remove it carefully as soon as possible. Many old pieces have been irrevocably damaged through the use of this type of hanger.

Storage

• Don't overcrowd cupboards. Place small items in front of large ones for easy access.
• Try not to stack antique plates - if you have to interleave them and do not make the stacks too heavy.
• Only stack plates of the same size and interleave with kitchen paper or tissue.
• Remove any metal hangers before storing.
• It is not advisable to stack cups or bowls or to hang antique cups by the handle.
• Do not rest objects on gilded rims.

Datemarks

You may be able to date your ware more accurately by looking for datemarks.

· c1770 - 1870:datemarks were not used during this period except around the 1860s when a series of impressed marks, (that is, marks pressed into the clay), was used to which we do not have the full code! (Details on a separate sheet by request)

· 1870 - 1963: impressed marks were used on earthenware from 1870 until 1957; and on bone china and fine stone from 1870 to 1963. These take the form of a letter over two numbers, for example J over 33, which would give you a date of January 1933. The following chart gives the letter code for each month.

• 1963 - 1976 : datemarks after 1963 until 1976 are indicated by a printed letter associated with particular backstamps and are a little complicated. There are several series of letters and a different letter is used to indicate the year depending on whether the body is bone china, fine stone or earthenware.
• 1976 - present day: by 1976 the date letters were the same for bone china, fine stone and earthenware starting at A - details below:

1976 - 1989 A - N

No letter O was used

1990 - 1997 P - W

No letter X was used

1998 - 1999 Y - Z

In 2000 a new series of letters was begun. The year 2000 has the mark A0, 2001 A1 etc

(It should be noted that in 1981 the date letter although allocated to the year was inadvertently omitted from the backstamps for the fine stone body and this body was withdrawn in 1993.)

This is a simplified description of the datemarks used at Spode and for full details consult 'Spode and Copeland Marks and Other Relevant Intelligence' by Robert Copeland, ISBN 0-289-80172-9.